It's definitely sturdier than the all-plastic paddle slicer I have - this has a metal frame and a more substantial easy-to-grip handle. But the feature that sets it apart from the typical paddle slicer is that it has a removable julienne blade, so this can be use for regular slicing tasks as well as julienning.
The size adjustment lever is on the side, which is a little more convenient than having it underneath, which is nice if you're slicing different things and want different thicknesss.
But the part that I like best isn't really about use - it's about storage. I love that the removeable julienne blade can be stored under the slicer where it snaps into place with the blades hidden. The hand guard snaps on top of the slicer covering the blade area.
While those storage features are probably designed with an eye on safely, I like the idea that all the components can be stored as one unit rather than having separate pieces I have to keep track of.
While this is an upgraded paddle-style slicer, it doesn't have all the features of a larger mandoline, like the wavy slicing blade or the larger dicing blade. But if you've been thinking about buying a more simple paddle-style slicer, this one is all that and more.
The product was supplied for the purpose of a review on Serious Eats; this was previously published on Serious Eats.